This place is legendary in foodie circles so there was no excuse for me not to get up at the crack of dawn to check it out. It opens at 0530, I got there at 0515 and there were already about 100 people in line before me. At opening, there were probably another 100 behind me and the line was starting to circle the block. I could watch this line from my hotel room and it did this every single day without fail. It does move reasonably quick though so my wait was about 15 minute once they opened which was not bad. It is a fun line to be in since you get to see some Taiwan life go by, then you start the climb up the stairs to the 2nd floor food hall and you get to pass by the windows of the kitchen with the dough rolling and hand placing of dough in ovens happening right in front of you. Don't miss the proud display of multiple year Michelin Guide awards in the window as you gawk at the staff grinding out the goods. Once past the window, pay attention. The line moves quickly and if you do not speak or read Mandarin, you will have 1 shot at inspecting a stand of plastic menus with food pictures, dish numbers and some minimal English to explain what is coming. Around each group of dishes is a color and as you approach the ordering counter, you will pass by 3 different sections on the counter (look up and the signs you can't read indicate each section). Let them know if you are eating there or taking it away. The dishes in the first color are ordered in section 1, followed by the next color for 2, etc. At each section, if you ordered something from it, it will be put on your tray in mere seconds. The final counter spot is where you pay (cash only) and then move out of the way as there are hundreds of people behind you. If you are indecisive or you don't get with this program of rapid move through, the staff will destroy you in foreign words and the crowd behind you will likely stone you so do so pay attention, be decisive, and GTFO of the way. Once you clear the counter, there is a small, nearly invisible spot on the end of a community counter with some soy, vinegar and chili condiments. Don't miss this. Then grab a place to sit and enjoy if you chose to stay there to eat. Surprisingly, there are almost always seats to be found even though they are so busy. The food is outstanding, especially the warm salty soy milk in a bowl topped with savory bits, scallions and pieces of fried dough. Add a couple fried eggs and it is total breakfast comfort food. This is unique to Taiwan so don't miss a shot at breakfast here if you are visiting and get the chance. One tip is that they don't seem to provide napkins (if you are a planner, bring some) and your fingers get greasy from the dough. Once finished, there is a place to clear your tray to and next to it is a sink for washing up your dirty paws. Another pro tip is that to the left of the sink is a hidden door to exit back down the stairwell from where you came. The beauty of this is that as you walk down, you get to walk by the dozens of people anticipating what is to come with a smug look of satisfaction that you have just visited the motherlode and are leaving with a jackpot in your belly. I have seen some lower ratings of this spot for hypercritical remarks about the food and I think it is because there is a lot of hype around it so people have expectations that are quite high when they visit. Yes, you can get similar food in dozens of other small eateries around Taipei but you are coming here because it is an original with a sound marketing plan (much like comparing soup dumplings around Taiwan to Din Tai Fung). Go here and manage your expectations and revel in the fact that you are enjoying proper Taiwanese breakfast food at the original standard set for it. That is what gets this 5 stars.
